Hyd-Mech bandsaws, no lead times!

I just wanted to let you know that when you were talking, I was listening. Too many times when quoting a Hyd-Mech band saw things were going smoothly until the dreaded conversation regarding lead time. Was that a pin drop I heard after telling you the saw would be ready in 17-24 weeks? We live in a world that when we want something, we want it now (guilty as charged!). In an effort to comply with the high demand of Hyd-Mech saws, Detroit Band Saw has purchased three brand new machines that are waiting and ready to be put on your shop floor.

S-20: The S-20 is Manual saw with a swing head design is ideal for use in tight working spaces. This saw is perfect for light or medium duty applications

S-20P: The S-20P is a semi-automatic miter head saw that is also perfect for light or medium duty applications. This machine has an LCD display to show: the machine mode, pieces cut, blade tension, blade speed, amperage draw of blade motor, cut duration, overall machine run time and head position.

H-14A: The H-14A is a fully automatic horizontal band saw. We purchased this machine with the following options: Hydraulic Overhead Bundling, Laser Light, and Variable Vise Pressure. The H-14A provides a 90 degree cutting angle. This machine is perfect for medium to heavy-duty applications.

If you have any questions, concerns, or would like a quote, give me a call--I'd be happy to help.

Keep Cutting,

Joe Bandsaw

Cutting Fluid

Most industrial band saws cutting metal should be using some sort of a cutting fluid/lubricoolant. When used properly, coolant should: wash chips out of the blade's gullets, cool the "tooth" tips to reduce heat damage, and lubricate the cut to reduce heat caused by cutting friction. Using the proper fluid will prolong the life of your band saw blade. In order to ensure proper dilution, a mixing ratio is printed on each label. Material Safety Data Sheets (MSDS) are available for every fluid we offer.

Cutting fluid should not be used when cutting materials that produce a powder, such as gray iron.

We carry a full line of Pure Synthetic and Semi Synthetic Coolants. We also carry Water Soluble Oils and Environmental Clean-Up products. You can check out our full line of cutting fluid at: http://www.detroitbandsaw.com/store.asp?pid=22312&catid=19886

If you are unsure which fluid you should be using, give us a call--we would be happy to help!

Keep cutting,
Joe Bandsaw

Stripped Teeth--Problems and Solutions

Did you know that 80% of blade failure is not due to the saw blade itself? If you notice there is a section of your band saw blade with an area of very dull or missing teeth take a look at the possible causes and resolutions listed below:



Too many teeth are in the cut causing the gullets to overfill

Use a coarser tooth pitch

Too few teeth in the cut

Use a finer tooth pitch

Over penetration of teeth, causing gullets to overfill

Increase blade speed or decrease feed rate

Chips are being carried back into the cut

Adjust or replace the chip brush

Parts aren’t held securely

Use a bundle clamp or tack weld stock ends

Erratic hydraulic system

1. Check for air in the system 2. Check for low oil

Belts slip under a load

1. Check belt tension. 2. Replace belts if necessary.



If you are experiencing other problems with your blade such as: gullet cracks, weld breakage, or chip welding take a look at the "Problems and Solutions" section of our Web Site: www.detroitbandaw.com

Blade Break-In; Why it's important!

Have you ever compared your band saw blade to a freshly sharpened pencil? Let me tell you why you should. If you try to apply too much pressure to a freshly sharpened pencil tip it's probably going to break; a band saw tooth reacts the same way. Breaking in or "honing" your band saw teeth will result in longer blade life. Band speed is not what breaks down the tooth tip during the honing process, feed pressure is. To properly break in your band saw blade, reduce your feed rate by 50% for 25 sq. inches then gradually increase your feed to the normal rate. For more tips and troubleshooting help take a look at our Resource Information Library: www.detroitbandsaw.com/store.asp?pid=31009&catid=19886

Lets cut,
Joe Bandsaw

Hyd-mech S20p

I am very excited to share that our first saw purchased through an auction was a complete success! In very little time were were able to: purchase a used Hyd-Mech S-20p, fine tune it to run like new, and ship it out the door. Our customer needed a saw ASAP, we provided it. We know times are still tough and new band saws don't always fit into the company budget. Our niche at Detroit Band Saw is to create solutions to help our customers become as efficient as possible. We have the skill, the knowledge, and the options to make that happen. If we can be of any assistance give us a call 877-421-3636. Not ready to make the call? Check us out: www.detroitbandsaw.com

Lets Cut!

-Joe Bandsaw

Proper tooth pattern for faster cutting

One of my customers recently contacted me for assistance in improving their steel cutting production rates. They had run up against a wall in trying to get faster cut times for some large bundles of angle, i-beam, and c-channel. Their saw was running smoothly, but the cut times were way too slow for their manufacturing demands.
I made an on-site visit to get first hand look at what was going on. They were cutting a 12" x 12" bundle of c-channel, approximatley 40 pieces in the bundle, and it was taking about 50 minutes to make the cut. That was a metal removal rate of 1.38 sq. inches per minute! No wonder they were panicked! They should be cutting around 7-10 square inches per minute!
Ok, what was the problem then....well, it all came down to proper tooth selection. They had never cut those large bundles of steel before, they were used to cutting one and two pieces at a time. When they went to a larger cross section of material, they never changed the tooth pattern. They basically had about 60 teeth in the workpiece at one time- 3x too many. I brought them a much more aggressive tooth pattern, broke the blade in for one cut, then i proceeded to cut that same bundle in 9 minutes! 50 minutes to 9 minutes- ya think they love me or what!? If you want me to improve your cutting rates, improve your production output, or help with your band saw blade life, look me up at www.detroitbandsaw.com
Stay warm,
Joe Bandsaw

Using a wood saw to cut metal

Too often, a homeowner or hobbiest tries to cut metal with the wood cutting bandsaw they have. Woodworking saws typically run much faster than metalworking saws, and bimetal blades have issues when they are run too fast. Here is a perfect example of a recent situation from a future customer named Dennis:

Joe,
My saw is a Craftsman 12” band saw. It has a 1725 rpm motor. The motor pulley is a 2-1/2” dia. and the machines pulley is a 5” dia. The saw blade mounts on two 12-1/2” wheels.
The saw is mainly used for wood but on occasion I cut metal. The heaviest I’ve cut is ½” thick stainless, but that’s very rare. Usually it’s just like 1/8” steel and nickel plated steel.
When I cut the stainless, I don’t force it, I take my time.
Of course my son has used it too, so you know how that goes.
So, was the blade I was using from McMaster Carr the right one? Bimetal 6’8”L., ½” wide, .025” thk., 10-14 Tpi.
Thanks for your help,
Dennis

Yes and no. I would recommend our M42 dieband blade over the blade McMaster Carr has sold you, but yes you were using a bimetal blade and that would be the right blade. However, I think your saw is running too fast for cutting stainless and that is part of the problem you are having. I do not know for sure the speed in feet per minute based on your response, but stainless should be cut at around 100 surface feet per minute. My guess is you are cutting at a wood cutting speed, and burning up the blades prematurely.



You are probably right about the wood cutting speed. Is your M42 a better blade then the bimetal I was using? If worst comes to worst, I can change drive pulleys to metal cutting speeds and that shouldn’t really bother the wood cutting.
What do you think?
Dennis

Yes, it has a harder tooth. About 69 rockwell. If you can slow it down, it will last longer Dennis. Make a mark on the blade and count how many times it goes around in one minute. Multiply that by the length and that will give you a ballpark of how fast you are going – feet per minute. Shoot for 100 f.p.m. for stainless, 250-300 for mild steel. The harder it is, the slower you need to go. Also the cut ease lubrication stick would help as well.

Let me know if we can help you.

According to the site I sent you for calculating SFPM, my saw runs at 2,821. A little fast to say the least.

As you can see above, the reason for his inablility to cut stainless had nothing to do with the blade, but everything to do with the saw. For a complete line of metal and wood cutting bandsaws, visit www.detroitbandsaw.com
We are here to help, thank you for looking!
Joe Bandsaw